CRITICAL CONVERSATION: THE FUTURE OF LEATHER GOODS

Sep 24

A CAPTIVATING INTERVIEW WITH ALICIA LINZ, THE CREATIVE FORCE BEHIND ALICIA VICTORIA AND CO-FOUNDER OF REGIONAL LEATHER.

Alicia Linz, a visionary in the world of sustainable fashion and leather, shares her insights, experiences, and profound commitment to ethical and regional leather production in an enlightening conversation with our very own Magdalena Schaffrin.

Alicia Victoria has emerged as a brand with a profound plea for heightened responsibility. This brand is dedicated to fostering awareness and cultivating a deep appreciation for the intrinsic value of leather. Beyond their core focus, they extend an invitation to all to embrace responsibility. Whether it's a bag, a garment, or a piece of furniture, each product carries its own share of responsibility. Alicia Victoria goes the extra mile by actively promoting the circular economy, championing initiatives such as resales, rentals, and donations.

Below you will find the full interview between Magadalena and Alicia.

Why is the leather industry lagging behind in terms of supply chain and transparency?

The leather industry is indeed lagging behind the textile industry when it comes to supply chain transparency. Only in recent years have companies begun to establish supply chain transparency, for example, through laser markings on hides. However, this is still the exception rather than the norm. It is primarily offered by European hide dealers to confirm the European origin of the hides and distance themselves from the issue of cattle farming in the Amazon region. Unfortunately, it tends to "forget" that many conventionally raised cattle in Europe are fed with soy from this region.

The reason for the lack of transparency is quite simple: supply chains in the leather industry are long and opaque. The origin of every piece of leather is an animal slaughtered for meat production. Hides are byproducts and are sold to tanneries or discarded. Unlike the textile industry, the raw material, the fiber, is not cultivated for the production of the final material but rather comes from another industry. For this reason, the leather industry sees itself as a recycler of another industry and tanneries did not see the need for action for a long time because they perceived themselves as a sustainable industry.

It is commendable to recycle resources, no doubt about that. The key is how resources are managed and how leather is produced. Such processes can be very sustainable, as we demonstrate with our example. We want to showcase this transparency and inspire others to do the same. In recent years, there have been many efforts and exemplary changes in the leather industry. However, leather is still perceived as an unethical material by many in the general public, making these efforts largely unnoticed.

How long did it take you to establish the supply chain for "Regional Leather"?

For my part, it took about two years from the concept to the first regional leather. This leather came from a 14-year-old dairy cow from the Mandelbachtal region that had spent its life on the pastures of an organic farm.

Regarding our new platform, it's worth mentioning that Nina and I started building regional supply chains separately about 10 and more than seven years ago, respectively. However, until a year ago, we were still operating independently. Our joint platform, 'Regional Leather,' now combines all our experiences and offerings.

We are talking about many different supply chains running parallel to each other, sometimes overlapping or converging. We work with a wide variety of animal hides, from goats and sheep to cattle and wild deer. Many actors are involved, from farmers and hunters to meat producers, local butchers, slaughterhouses, and tanneries.

The journey from a living animal, treated with respect and appreciation, to finished leather involves many experts and requires a strong network of reliable partners who share the same values.

Why is genuine (and regional) leather more sustainable than synthetic leather or leather from plants (e.g., mushroom, pineapple)?

Genuine leather is a natural material made from an existing resource, has wonderful properties, is durable, and biodegradable. When produced responsibly, regionally, from existing resources, and with sustainable tanning agents, there is no reason to replace it. Instead, we should invest our energy in making leather production ever more sustainable.

Leather is made from the hides of animals raised for meat production, not for their hides. We must not forget that everything is interconnected, and our challenges span across industries. In a world where resources are becoming scarcer, using these valuable circular materials makes sense.

Most synthetic leathers on the market contain at least some petroleum-based materials. Even bio-based synthetic leathers, such as 'apple leather', contain a significant amount of PU to meet the basic requirements for use. Only 15-30% are leftovers from apple juice production. In the case of so-called cactus leather, the percentage is even lower. These artificial leathers have a short lifespan and are neither recyclable nor biodegradable. Even piñatex still requires a PU coating - and is not a leather-like material, but a textile - and the development of so-called mushroom leather is still in its infancy and not yet available.

About 18 months ago, a study was published by the FILK Institute in which leather and various synthetic leathers were tested for various parameters such as tear resistance, breathability and chemical substances. The study clearly showed the many technical advantages of leather and also found banned substances in various artificial leather samples.

All these considerations lead me to the same conclusion: We should be responsible with the natural resources we have.

Is it ethically justifiable and sustainable to buy products and clothing made from (wildlife) leather?

Yes, it is not only ethically justifiable but also our ethical responsibility. As I mentioned earlier, farm animals are bred and slaughtered for meat and milk, not for their hides. What would happen with all the hides if we don’t use them to produce leather?

Our value creation begins with appreciation, appreciation for the life of the animal. Our vision includes ending factory farming and supporting regenerative, organic, or biodynamic agriculture. This applies to farm-raised animals. The hides of wild animals, which we process, come from hunters who conduct strategic hunting to achieve conservation goals and maintain the balance of flora and fauna. Thus, hunting can contribute to the natural rejuvenation and growth of stable mixed forests, for example. We must not forget that everything is interconnected, and our challenges span across industries. In a world where resources are becoming scarcer, using these valuable circular materials makes sense.

Using wildlife leather as a resource was not considered for a long time. Why do you think that is?

Our economy is too focused on maximizing profit. For the traditional industry, the use of this resource was unattractive, in my opinion, because it was not accurately predictable. This is partly because we only have decentralized availability of the resource. Furthermore, wild animals often have a different scar pattern than animals bred in captivity. They had their own lives in the wild. If leather, like ours, is not "enhanced" with a plastic layer, all natural characteristics become visible, which deters many people.

Another factor is the declining number of tanneries. In the past, all animal hides were used because it was not affordable to dispose of hides. Since the end of World War II, most tanneries have moved abroad or closed down. The few remaining tanneries either focus on large animal hides (cowhide) or on the production of individual hides. This has resulted in an excess of hides that no one processes, and they must be disposed of.

Who is your target audience with your platform "Regional Leather"?

"Regional Leather" is a joint project by Nina and me. As mentioned earlier, both of us had been producing leather and products from it independently for several years and had gained valuable experience in different projects and industries. Together is better than alone, so we teamed up last autumn to give our locally and ethically produced leather more visibility. What unites us is the common vision of using existing regional resources instead of wasting them and giving them the value they deserve.

Our target audience is diverse. On one hand, we want to expand our network of farmers and hunters to utilize more resources and produce leather. For businesses that wish to, we manufacture leather or leather products from their hides that they can use or sell. The leather we produce is sold to small and large companies from various industries (clothing, footwear, bags/accessories, etc.), designers, shoemakers, craftsmen, or musical instrument makers. We have a stock, but we also produce on demand. We support companies and designers in making their leather goods production more sustainable. Apart from our production, we also strive to share knowledge and raise awareness about the issue. We regularly give lectures, have teaching assignments at universities, and use our social media to draw attention to the topic.

What opportunities have opened up for you through membership in the VORN Community?

In the first few months of my membership in the VORN Community, I have been offered many great opportunities. All with the goal of supporting each other, getting to know each other, and networking. Through the VORN Community, I receive updates from various areas that would likely pass me by in my daily work.

Have you already engaged in exchanges with other members?

Yes, multiple times! It's exciting and inspiring to see the various approaches to genuine sustainability. The personal exchanges have always been open and interesting.

What led you to become part of our community?

Actually, it was my encounter with you (Magdalena Schaffrin). I met you at a trade fair a year ago. After I presented our concept to you, you drew my attention to the VORN Community. That was before its official launch.

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