DESIGN TO DETOXIFY
AUTHORS: Rosario Artigas, Poojitha Hedge, Julia Madzarevic, Jenny Richter, Esther Werring
dEFINITION
“The process of removing harmful chemicals from something.”
Right to Know Principle
Principle 10 of the “Rio declaration on environment and development”, released by the Rio Earth Summit in 1992.
“ Environmental issues are best handled with the participation of all concerned citizens, at the relevant level. At the national level, each individual shall have appropriate access to information concerning the environment that is held by public authorities, including information on hazardous materials and activities in their communities, and the opportunity to participate in decision-making processes. States shall facilitate and encourage public awareness and participation by making information widely available. Effective access to judicial and administrative proceedings, including redress and remedy, shall be provided.” (UN, 1992)
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TERMINOLOGY
POPs. Persistent Organic Pollutants
REACH. Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and Restriction of Chemicals
ZDHC. Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals
SVHC. Substance of Very High Concern
RSL. Restricted Substance List
MRSL. Manufacturing Restricted Substances List
CIL. Chemical Inventory List
ECHA. European Chemicals Agency
EUCLEF. European Chemical Legislation Finder
OCED. Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development
Photo by Sazzad Bin Jafor on Unsplash
DATA & FACTS
pRODUCTION & DYEING
90% of our clothes are dyed synthetically and require incredible amounts of water and often toxic chemicals in production.
Azo dyes comprise 60-70% of all dyes used in food and textile industries. These can be harmful to humans and pollute water systems when in contact with the skin.
More than 1,900 chemicals are used in the production of clothing. The market for chemicals applied to textiles is on track to hit $30.7 billion by 2025
Image by Freepik
CHEMICAL RELEASE
Washing synthetics releases an estimated 0.5 million tonnes of microfibers into the ocean a year
20% of global clean water pollution come from dyeing and finishing products.
About 60% of material made into clothing is plastic, which includes polyester, acrylic and nylon textiles. These rely heavily on chemical (treatment).
Photo from Dhito_10 on Pixabay
CARBON EMISSIONS
Fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions
2.1 billion metric tons of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions in 2018, about 4 percent of the global total
Producing polyester releases two to three times more carbon emissions than cotton
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lANDFILL
In the past two decades, the number of garments produced annually has doubled. In 2017, it was estimated that the fashion industry contributed 92 million tonnes of waste to the world’s landfills.
In 2018, Burberry had destroyed over £90 million worth of unsold items over five years, in an attempt to keep their prices high and their products exclusive
Photo by Tom Fisk on Pexels.com
DESIGN APPROACH
A FEW POTENTIAL DESIGN STRATEGIES FOR REDUCING THE USAGE OF CHEMICALS IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY
RETHINKING MATERIALS
Develop new materials and explore existing material alternatives to reduce reliance on chemical-intensive processes.
Adopt the reuse, recycle, and renew (IR3) philosophy to reduce the need for raw materials, as well as production and energy emissions.
Incorporate biotechnology and biofabrication to produce sustainable textiles.
For practical yet environmentally sustainable clothes, put an emphasis on electronic textiles (smart fabrics).
PRODUCTION METHODS
Use environmentally friendly dyeing and printing methods to minimize the use of chemicals.
To reduce chemical waste, place a strong emphasis on techniques that conserve energy and water.
Encourage the use of non-toxic, low-impact finishing methods for textiles.
TRANSPARENCY AND SUPPLY CHAIN TRACEABILITY
Promote supply chain transparency in the fashion industry to make chemical usage visible.
Working with suppliers who are dedicated to chemical reduction will support ethical sourcing practices.
Work with certification programs that attest to the ethical and safe manufacturing of chemicals.
ENGAGING WITH REGULATIONS
Keep up with regional and global laws governing the use of chemicals in the fashion sector.
Adopt more stringent chemical management standards voluntarily in order to comply with and surpass legal requirements.
Promote stricter laws that give priority to reducing and removing dangerous chemicals.
ALTERNATIVE MATERIALS
By substituting these microorganisms with conventional chemical-based colors, such as bacteria and fungi, pollution and water contamination are reduced.
Microbial pigments offer a variety of tints and colors, giving artists lots of creative alternatives.
Utilizing organic waste materials and resource-efficient fermentation methods, it is possible to grow these bacteria without using a lot of resources.
By incorporating bacteria that produce pigment, the fashion industry may produce textiles that are chemically-free and environmentally responsible.
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TECHNOLOGIES
Alchemie and other businesses serve as examples of how digital dyeing, which uses digital printing to apply colors directly to fabrics, is revolutionizing the fashion industry. Compared to conventional dyeing techniques, this environmentally friendly procedure uses less water, chemicals, and energy. It minimizes material waste while enabling precise, adaptable designs. Digital dyeing's environmentally friendly method conserves resources, stops the release of dangerous chemicals, and quickens manufacturing cycles. This cutting-edge technology empowers designers, encourages environmental awareness, and paves the way for a greener and more effective future for the fashion industry. Learn more about water dying here.
Photo by Jelleke Vanooteghem on Unsplash
PROCESSES
PRECISION FERMENTATION
This process allows us to use the same building blocks as traditional silk or as a leather, but allows a huge potential to change the material beyond the biological constraints of the animal. You could potentially make the material even stronger.” For example, precision fermentation would allow a manufacturer to create a sheet of leather that fits the specific needs of a particular order, thus reducing waste and cost to a brand. Learn more about material innovation here.
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TISSUE ENGINEERING
By producing fabrics in the lab, tissue engineering is transforming the fashion sector. The new approach does away with the need for chemical, water, and energy-intensive operations by growing living cells. It enables the production of biodegradable materials that may be customized and have specific qualities.
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SEALS & CERTIFICATION SYSTEMS
OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 is a certificate for consumer safety, testing residues of harmful substances in final textile products. Thresholds, including around 100 test parameters for chemical residues, are covered. The seal is divided into four product classes.
Product class 1: Articles for babies and toddlers
Product class 2: Articles with direct contact to the skin
Product class 3: Articles without direct contact to the skin
Product class 4: Home textiles
The limit values for each class, is defined by skin contact. The higher the skin contact, the stricter the limit values.
HELPFUL RESOURCES
OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT is a certification system for chemical manufacturers. It encompasses chemicals, colourants and auxiliaries used in the textile and leather industry. The certificate ensures consumer save end-products.
OEKO-TEX® STeP is a certification system for production facilities in the textiles and leather industry. It is defined by six modules which are analysed and assessed to improve the conditions along the supply chain.
Chemical management
Environmental performance
Environmental management
Social responsibility
Quality management
Health protection and safety at work
HELPFUL RESOURCES
OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN is a certificate for consumers. It is a combination of the OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 or OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD and the OEKO-TEX® SteP.
HELPFUL RESOURCES
GOTS is a standard for textiles. Next to the focus on organic fibre content, it includes ecological and social criteria along the supply chain and is certified by a third-party. The standard is divided into two certificates:
GOTS organic: using 95% - 100% organic fibres
GOTS made with: 70% - 94% organic fibres
HELPFUL RESOURCES
bluesign® focuses on chemical management along the supply chain. It works in partnership with brands, manufacturers and chemical suppliers. The overall goal is to ensure a hazardous free textile production. bluesign® is also a certificate for consumers. The company works on the basis of three different lists:
bluesign® SYSTEM BLACK LIMITS (BSBL): Specifies threshold limits for chemical substances in finished chemical products
bluesign® SYSTEM SUBSTANCES LIST (BSSL): Specifies consumer safety
bluesign® RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (RSL); ( extract of the BSSL): specifies consumer safety limits, recommends testing methods for the most important and legally restricted substances
HELPFUL RESOURCES
Cradle to Cradle Certified® is an overall arching system that aims towards circularity within industrial manufacturing, including the fashion and apparel sector. The actual certification is divided into five categories of sustainability performance.
Regarding the fulfilment of these criteria different certifications can be reached. The Cradle to Cradle Certified Product Standard is based upon four ascending levels of achievement.
Cradle to Cradle Certified® Bronze
Cradle to Cradle Certified® Silver
Cradle to Cradle Certified® Gold
Cradle to Cradle Certified® Platinum
LEGISLATION
It’s a main EU law to protect human health and the environment from the risks that can be posed by chemicals. This is done by better and earlier identification of the intrinsic properties of chemical substances and by taking measures, such as phasing out or restricting substances of very high concern. REACH also aims to enhance innovation and the competitiveness of the EU chemicals industry.
DETOXIFYING DESIGN WITH REACH
REACH places responsibility on industry to manage the risks from chemicals and to provide safety information on the substances. To that end, manufacturers and importers are required to gather information on the properties of their chemical substances and to register that information in a central database in the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). This can help ensure that harmful substances are not used in design processes.
European Union's regulation concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals.
Copyright European Chemicals Agency
PRIMARY FOCUS
HELPFUL RESOURCES
lIMITS REACHED
Chemical control through Reach is a necessity as it has been proven, that companies often don't act responsibly unless there is regulation.
Still the process is highly complicated, time and labour intensive, which leads to the following obstacles:
Restricted chemicals often get replaced by other chemicals of concern.
New restrictions take > 10 years
New chemical approvals can take < 3 weeks
Bild von Dhito 10 auf Pixabay
CHEMICAL GUIDE
Hazardous chemicals can be found in every step of the supply chain for different reasons. Take a close look at your brand’s processes and start designing for a toxin-free supply chain right from the beginning.
Have a look, which groups of chemicals are used for what purpose and start your chemical inventory list (CIL) to get an overview and enable yourself to decide which chemicals could be scrapped or replaced.
Find your easy way around chemicals in the textile supply chain and how they impact the environment and human health. Check the High Risk Chemicals in the Value Chain
HELPFUL RESOURCES
BEST PRACTICES
Designers today have the power to revolutionize the fashion industry by embracing sustainable practices from the very beginning of their creative process. It's not just about choosing eco-friendly materials; it's about fostering detoxification in the design briefing, material sourcing, and throughout the entire supply chain.
PRIORITIZE NATURAL FABRICS OVER SYNTHETIC FABRICS
Synthetic fabrics are crafted from fibers sourced from petroleum, a finite resource, and are more susceptible to containing harmful chemicals. In contrast, natural fabrics like cotton, wool, silk, and linen are derived from renewable resources, possess biodegradable properties, and can be produced without toxic elements.
EXCEPTION! It is worth noting that bamboo fabric distinguishes itself from other natural fabrics in some important aspects. While it is often marketed as eco-friendly, its environmental impact depends on the comparison being made. Bamboo fabric is typically a type of rayon, which involves the use of harmful chemicals during manufacturing. In contrast, other rayon fabrics are derived from wood pulp, while cotton fabrics do not require chemical processing.
PREFER ORGANIC INSTEAD OF NON-ORGANIC FABRICS
In addition to various advantages, organic farming methods offer protection against environmental and water pollution caused by the use of toxic pesticides and fertilizers typically employed in conventional non-organic practices. It is recommended to look for the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification, as it imposes stricter regulations on the use of toxic chemicals throughout the fabric production process.
Organic cotton fabric, exemplified by Patagonia's commendable leadership in exploring sustainable fabrics, stands out as one of the most favorable choices. Organic hemp and flax (linen) also present excellent natural alternatives.
DIGITALLY PRINTED FABRICS INSTEAD OF FABRICS WITH OTHER DYEING PROCESSES
The dyeing process accounts for the majority of the water used during fabric production and pollutes heavy metals, bleach, and other chemicals into the environment. Digitally printed fabrics use drastically less water. So choosing digitally printed fabrics will reduce the carbon footprint.
DESTINATION ZERO - GREENPEACE REPORT
Greenpeace Germany has released a recent report that assesses the advancements made by global clothing brands and suppliers in their efforts to eliminate harmful chemicals from their production processes. The report also highlights the potential obstacles and areas of focus that lie ahead for all stakeholders involved in this detoxification journey.
CLEAN CLOTHES CAMPAIGN
An easy to digest report of the impact of fashion practices on the environment. Check out more baout the Clean Clothes Camping HERE.
SMART-INDIGO™ - SUSTAINABLE TECHNOLOGY TO DYE DENIM
This technology revolutionizes the dyeing process of denim, bringing forth a diverse spectrum of captivating blue shades. By utilizing electricity instead of harmful chemicals, they contribute to preserving the environment and freeing individuals from the burdens of toxic substances. Smart-Indigo™ pioneers a new era in the denim industry, paving the way towards a sustainable future and inspiring others to follow suit.
BLUESIGN® - A CERTIFICATION TO LOOK UP TO
The bluesign® certification plays a significant role in addressing the use of toxic chemicals in the textile and apparel industry. One of the key principles of the bluesign® certification is consumer safety, which includes strict regulations and requirements regarding the use of hazardous substances.
To achieve bluesign® certification, brands and manufacturers must comply with the bluesign® Restricted Substances List (RSL). This list specifies substances that are prohibited or restricted due to their potential harmful effects on human health and the environment. It sets limits and standards for chemicals such as heavy metals, formaldehyde, phthalates, and other hazardous substances.